66 Summer Travelling in Iceland. but we got along fairly well. As we advanced, the hills on either side of us began to show more signs of vegetable life, until at length on one of them we caught sight of a tent and a party of haymakers at work. We very nearly lost one of our horses here in the following manner. I was watching the pack-train as they trotted along, when suddenly one of the horses disappeared; it had fallen into a fissure about ten feet deep, which lay right in the middle of the track. I expected to find it so seriously injured that it would have to be killed, but, after neighing with fright, it scrambled out at a place where the sides were not quite perpendicular, and trotted off after its companions apparently none the worse for its fall. Some of the haymaking party came down from the mountain to meet us, and accompanied us to the farm of Mjofidalr, where they set before us some capital skyr, black bread, and coffee. Asmundur, having brought us as far as he had engaged to, presented his little bill for payment, but his charge seemed to me to be so exorbitant that I refused to pay it until he had reduced it by twenty-five kroner. After considerable argument he consented to accept this reduction, and was even then getting much more than was justly his due. He clearly attempted to impose upon us, and I should strongly advise any future traveller who may require his services to have a clear understanding with him, in writing, before starting. Zoega behaved very well, and would not let himself be talked over; indeed on this and all other occasions he proved him- self to be a most trustworthy man where our interests were concerned. After a short halt we crossed the Grjota, which runs in the valley close to the farm, and, passing over a steep hill, came to the farm of Isholl in the plain below. This place is beautifully situated at the end of a lake, about two miles long, and one broad, along the western shore of which our route

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