148 Summer Travelling in Iceland. In passing over a rocky part of the trail, Morgan’s horse tripped and came heels over head right on the top of him; strange to say, however, he escaped any serious injury, but was a good deal shaken. A little farther on we came to a well-made road, and on attaining an elevation of 2000 feet, we halted to change horses and get something to eat. After giving our horses an hour’s rest, and letting them get such feed as the scanty grass afforded, we set off again to cross the barren waste which lies between Grimsttingur and Kalmanstunga, a distance of 65 miles, a great portion of which is 2000 feet above the level of the sea. Soon after starting, we passed a miserable farm, and stopped to get a drink of milk. It was such a tumble-down sort of a place, that I could not but pity the poor people who spend their lives in this desolate region, at such an elevation that during the winter the cold must be unbearable. All they possessed seemed to be a few sheep, yet when asked what we had to pay for the milk, the woman who had given it to us said she could make no charge, and that we were welcome to it; of course we insisted on paying her, and she seemed quite surprised when I gave her half a kroner. This poor place was the last habita- tion that we saw on this side of the island, and as we are now taking leave of the north, I will here add my testimony to that of many other travellers as to the kindness and hospitality of its country people, and also to the superiority of its home- steads, as compared with any that I have seen in the south. The roads were being pushed forward with vigour, but there were mistakes in the manner in which the work was being carried out that entailed the expenditure of much unnecessary labour; for though the bridle-paths were carried over gra- dients which could only be surmounted by horses, and were far too steep ever to admit of the traffic of wheeled vehicles, yet in many places they were made as much as 10 feet wide where 5 feet would have been ample ; and at other times they

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