258 A ppendix. miles an hour, and 35 miles is a fair day’s journey. Of course, with saddle- horses only, this rate and distance will be much exceeded, but no ad- vantage is gained by running away from the pack train, as in the end you will only have to wait until they come up. Two horses are required for each rider and every load, and care should be taken to divide the day’s journey equally between them ; it is also necessary with Icelandic horses to dismount for about ten minutes every two hours ; without this is done the poor beasts get very much distressed, and a few minutes’ grazing seems to freshen them up wonderfully. If a saddle-horse shows any signs of getting a sore back, either let him run with the spare horses for a day or two, or else put a light pack on him, as the pack-saddle will have a different bearing on his back from the riding-saddle, and he will soon be fit to ride again : mean- while you will have to be content to ride a rougher-paced animal. With regard to the best season to visit Iceland I should say, by what I have gathered from those who have had most experience of the climate, that the beginning of July is certainly the best time, as the rivers will have begun to fall, and the fords, which constitute the real dangers of Icelandic travel, will be more easily passed than earlier in the year. The beginning of September is the latest that any party should remain on the island with- out they are prepared to risk spending a winter there. Expenses. Our pack-horses cost from 4/. ior. to 5/. ior. each, and our saddle-horses from 6/. to 12/. ; altogether our twenty-four horses cost 133/., and after we had done with them sold for 33/. ; they would no doubt have brought a higher price if it had not been for the scarcity of hay; the result was, however, equivalent to our paying 21. 13^. horse hire per diem, which would be at the rate of 2s. 3d. for each horse for every day during our journey. The guides were all paid alike, 5.r. ('id,i per diem, and they had to find their own food. On the average we paid 12 kroner, equal to a little more than 13^., at everyplace where we got our evening meal, slept, and had breakfast; this included a charge for the grazing of our horses. At places where we only halted to get a meal the charge was a shilling each, or more strictly speaking, a kroner. The usual payment made to a guide for showing the ford of a river was one or two kroner; this would depend on the size and state of the river. Before leaving Reykjavik, provide yourself with about 5/. worth of Danish silver; the fixed exchange is 18 kroner to the pound sterling. The expenses of such a visit as we made to Iceland may be taken at 100/. per month for each person; this ought to cover everything, including passage money out and home. I have now given all the information which I think will be useful, and will conclude by expressing a hope that these hints may be of service to those of my readers who propose, for the first time, to visit Iceland.

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