134 THREE VISITS TO ICELAND. not get close in. We were not many yards from Dr. Thomsen’s house. His wife received us kindly, then ushered us into the sitting-room. The good old man was lying on his sofa, but jumped up with a delighted face. He did not of course know that we were still in Iceland. He asked us to take “pot-luck” with him at his dinner at 4; so we gratefully accepted, and not wishing to tire him by too long a visit, we went out to sketch and stroll; but, alas ! the lights were nil, except some gleams of sun on a distant hill, under the mists—very difficult to paint. I sketched the church and house, and a bit across the fjord, with the daisy-grown graveyard in front. About 3.30 we went in and had a talk with dear old Grimur. He gave B. a lovely little remembrance of Iceland—a little gold stud or button, like a quatrefoil, which he said had been found in an old sepulchre. Then we went to the dining-room. Grimur handed me to the seat of honour on his right hand. Fru Thomsen and a niece waited on us. When the fish was handed round, our host said, “But where are the potatoes?” and then funnily answered his own query, “ We have none! ” and explained that they were kept for winter use. He also said to me, “We have servants, but we do not have them in at meals, it is not the custom”; and a little after he asked, “ Does it hurt you to see the wife ? ” as Fru T. changed our plates or brought dishes. We laughed and said no, we often waited on ourselves at lunch. Our dinner was excellent, fish with a very nice sauce, eggs and bacon as an entree, then stewed lamb, and finally splendid skyr (curds) and cream. The skyr was much more sour than I have usually tasted, and Frd T. went on pressing us to take “ Meir sykur, meir sykur" (more sugar) and “meir hrjom" (more cream). Fru T. comes out wonderfully when you know her and she finds that you can speak to and understand her. A dear little boy, a nephew of hers, was of the party.

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