138 THREE VISITS TO ICELAND. 8th.—Bergthorshvol! The end of our pilgrimage at last, and I am sitting to write up my diary in a room in the par- sonage, which is supposed to be on the site of Njal’s skdii. But I must go back to the day of our starting on our second journey. Our good friends the Messrs. C. saw us off, after pressing upon us various provisions for the way, which they would not let us refuse, although we had catered fairly well for ourselves. I regret to say that one of them began by saying he had a crow to pluck with me. I had made his charioteer drunk ! I had felt on being set down by the char-a-banc that it was only fitting to give poor John-a-dreams, who had been so conversable and civil, a small tip—i kr., in point of fact—but the krona had disagreed with him ! However, no harm resulted to life or property. We set off bravely down the good-made road, having kind salutes from the Helgasons at their door and Miss Paterson from her window. I have forgotten to say that the Botnia arrived on Wed- nesday night, causing great stir at the hotel, which is to be very full—no one travelling our way, luckily, so we Njal- worshippers have a clear field before us. The captain, my friend of last year, came to breakfast, and was very genial. J ulius has engaged a three-berthed state room for us already. We rode fast early in the day, and soon came to quite a new district under Ingolfsfjall, round the shoulder of which magnificent dark mountain the road wound till we came to the south side. Finally we arrived at a long winding zigzag— all well-made road too—flanked by upright stones at regular distances. The road suggested some of those in the south of France, or other mountainous districts; having the good road seemed quite a new feature of Icelandic travel. At last we came to the bottom and halted; then on along an endless flat road, till we were joined by a man riding towards Eyrabakki, who had a pony to sell. He talked to me for some time, and pointed out all the horse’s good

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