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The Faroe Islands.
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the “ Mastiffs ” saw more when they found themselves in Iceland. That it should
have been found necessary here I am surprised, as Thorshavn though it lies
between 6i° and 62° N.L., is not a place of very much snow. The climate is moist
and foggy, and storms are frequent; but the winters are not severe. The frost
lasts hardly beyond a month, and the harbours are seldom icebound. But there
are the houses covered with grass, giving to the place from a little distance the
appearance of a town under the sods.
When we had perambulated the streets we were taken up to a little hill over
the town so that we might look down upon and see the nature of its situation and
its structure. Thorshavn lies all around various little nooks of the sea, and has
that smell and flavour of the sea which is peculiar to such places. It is very
pretty, but its smell and flavour, combining that of many fishes, is one to which
the visitor must become accustomed before it will be palatable. 1 here is certainly
the ancient and the fish-like smell;—otherwise Thorshavn is delightful.
There are, I was told, about 10,000 inhabitants in the islands, of which the
capital holds about 900. Looking at statistics composed as to the Faroes about
twenty-five years ago, I find the number of the people given as 8,150 for the
group altogether, and 1,500 for the capital. The figures which I have given are
what I received simply in conversation. The population of the town was probably
correctly stated by my informant. The cultivation is very poor, the ground being
too rocky for the general use of ploughs. Horses and cattle are rare. The wealth
of the farmers consists in their sheep. The sheep, however, are never housed, and
the wool is torn from their backs instead of being shorn. Here, as at St. Kilda,
there is a great enterprise of bird-catching, for the sake of the flesh as well as
the feathers. There seemed to be little or no poverty. A good carpenter in
Thorshavn would earn 4s- a week ; in other parts of the islands a moderate
carpenter would earn 2s. They use Danish coins, of which the crown contains
100 farthings; this crown is worth something over 2s. The people generally are
healthy; the girls appear to be remarkably strong. But here again I was told
that rheumatism prevails.
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