CHAPTER IV. REYKJAVIK. siagsfp | E coasted along- the southern and south-western shore of Iceland, wondering at the vast expanses of frozen snow which filled the slanting valleys down almost to the shore, with various opinions. Were they 8S£ j i glaciers, or were they only fields of frozen snow ? There was a regular battle of the glaciers, fought with many field-glasses and telescopes. I own that I took the part of the simple snow, thinking that the colour to be seen in glaciers was absent. But I must own that the evidence went against me. They were of immense size, perhaps a dozen miles broad and thirty or forty long. Very early in the morning we found ourselves in the harbour of Reykjavik, the capital of the country, and as we looked out upon the waters of the fiord in which we lay, and saw the islands and headlands around us, every “Mastiff” felt that he or she had done something memorable. The first operation of the “Mastiffs” of the sterner sex was to bathe, which was done with the greatest satisfaction from the ship’s ladder. The water was deliciously tranquil, deliciously warm, deliciously cool,—beautifully pellucid as sea water can only be when it is altogether tranquil. The bathing was so charming that the bosoms of the ladies were filled with envy, and before long they had a boat put off for themselves, so that they might find some spot of perfect oceanic seclusion. They declared to us afterwards that they were in all respects successful. After breakfast we swarmed ashore, impatient to touch the land of Iceland. We were all of us desired in the first instance to present ourselves to the Governor. J. B.’s orders in this respect being of a nature to admit of no

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