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Reykjavik. 21
scarce in Iceland; but it would almost seem that dried fish would do as well.
It seems that their mutton is very good,—so good as to be declared by the
Governor to be equal if not superior to any produced elsewhere; but it is not
plentiful, and therefore of course dear. It is very generally salted,—as must of
course be necessary for winter consumption in a country in which the winter lasts
for more than six months, and in which the stock must be kept alive during
the period by fodder provided for them.
I do not think that any one of our party ate a morsel of Icelandic food during
our sojourn beyond curds, cream, and milk,—unless it might be a biscuit taken
with a glass of wine. Our provisions had all been brought from Scotland, and
from our ship’s stores we carried with us up to the Geysers what was needed.
The “Mastiffs” therefore are not in a position to say much from their own
experience of Icelandic delicacies or Icelandic nutriment. But the look of the
people, which is better evidence than personal trials, declare the viands to be
generally wholesome. They are a healthy, comely race to the eye, though of
course they have their own sanitary troubles, as do other people. Scurvy,
cutaneous diseases, and even leprosy are to be found; but then, so in other
countries are consumption, and heart disease. Considering the sparseness
of the population, and the difficulty as to medical advice which must be
incidental to such a state of things, they are a healthy strong race in spite of
their want of cereal foods. It was whispered into my ear that drunkenness is not
uncommon. I saw no one drunk, nor do I think that any case of intoxication
was seen by any “Mastiff” during our sojourn. Lord Dufferin speaks of a high
state of conviviality on a certain occasion; but, if I remember rightly, it was his
own conviviality which has been chiefly described. The “ Mastiffs themselves,
though jovial dogs, were nevertheless sober dogs.
The real condition of a people, as to happiness and civilization, may
very generally be told from the state of education among them. Everybody,
almost everybody, in Iceland can read. I quote as follows from Sir George
Mackenzie’s work on the country, published as long ago as 1811, when educa-
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