How we Rode to the Geysers. 37 elder, I spoke a word. I was simply whistling to the winds while the riders were already rushing away far in front. As one result of the fast riding we got our coffee at the farm-house, called Muli, and had also an ample opportunity of seeing the appurtenances of a comfortable Iceland grange. Our meal consisted chiefly of curds, cream, and sugar, which some of us pronounced to be excellent, and of which some of us ate very heartily. The curds were a little sour,—but were so deluged with thick cream that I thought them to be delicious. The coffee was not perhaps so good. The farmer’s wife was delighted to allow us to wander about the place, into the bed- rooms, kitchen, parlours, larder, and dairy. The parlour in which we sat was comfortable, and for a farm-house, well furnished. I will not say that the beds were inviting; but that was not to be expected. In one room there were four stout bedsteads, each with its feather-bed. The kitchen was roomy, dark, and mysterious. Perhaps the most interesting apartment was the dairy, with its numerous arrangements for milk and cream and cheese. The larder also was a good sized room and stored amply with provisions; but the contents of the larder were not so appetizing to an Englishman as those of the dairy. Altogether there was an appearance of great plenty about the place. The house was built, as had also been that of the minister’s at Thingvalla, with various gables all looking one way, with grass on the roof, and the roof coming almost to the ground. The construction is arranged altogether in reference to snow, so that the snow itself should afford protection against the cold, and then run off without causing damp. Round the grange there were rich wide pastures, with beautiful grass. At another farm a little distance I saw some wire-fencing about the place, showing how far agricultural civilization had progressed even in Iceland. After remaining at Muli nearly two hours, we galloped on, and soon reached the field of the Geysers which was about four miles distant.

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