44 bridge was reached. The water was deep, turbu- . lent, and rapid, and at times our horses were up to their girths. The view we had, in crossing, of the foaming mass of water through which we moved, and the yawning gulf into which it was furiously tumbling, was something unique. After crossing plashy bogs, more rivers, and climbing several hills, the wished-for goal lay before us. Pushing on rapidly, our trusty ponies picked their way over a gritty slope, amongst numerous plopping pits, steaming holes, boiling springs, and fountains, up to the side of the Great Geyser. A wondrous scene lay around us It was mid- night ; hundreds of jets of steam, some of great size, were issuing from the ground on all sides, and, towards the West, they seemed to extend over the boggy country for more than half a mile. There was but little wind, and the steam ascended perpendicularly into the air in unbroken columns, giving one the idea—as it has been well said—of being surrounded by an army of tall, white giants. The horses were hobbled, and dinner for the previous day cooked, for the constant daylight, and ever- changing scenery and above all the necessity of preparing our own meals, made us “frequently breakfast at five o’clock tea, and dine on the fol- lowing day.” Hot water being laid on here in so delightful a manner, we soon made Bovril and tea. Our mode of cooking was simple : A fine fish, with head and tail tied together, was fastened to one end of a string, and a big stone to the other ; the fish was plumped into the water and the stone left outside to moor it; so with all kinds of perserved meat, and soups ; whilst in the Blesi, a spring of higher temperature, we boiled a plum-pudding brought from home to celebrate our visit to one of the wonders of the world. Our repast finished, Ericson retired to the little tent and was soon asleep notwithstanding the wet clothes, hard ground, and other miseries ; whilst we by the side of the Great Geyser, like pilgrims seated around some ancient shrine, patiently kept watch It was a lonely place, and the most striking feature was, I think, the stillness—ice, rock and water surrounded us ; not a sound of any kind inter- rupted the silence, no bird or any living thing was visible. The midnight sun, veiled in transparent mist, shed a mysterious lustre on the bare snow crested mountains, on which we could see rTTt»T»<TI4W»»tttrTTtll

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