12 WEMYSS BAY TO STORNOWAY. to the landlord; I do not know the rent, but this I know, that the island looks deserted, and that the nation has lost some of the strongest arms it had, and hearts as patriotic as any which the world has known. We know places where the crofters are not sent away, and these places are pleasanter than the deserts where the ruined houses are; and we know places where they are absent, and were desired, and, as we were told, enticed to come. The rights of the crofters in many places stand on a footing which would probably be found very strong if properly examined. We sailed on with the desert-looking island at our right, and the shores with raised cliffs, showing that in former times the island had been larger, and had its shores made precipitous by the lashing and grinding of the sea and its pebbles. All along the shore what a study for a young geologist! He can see there the rocks broken up as they are drawn in books, and great dykes that severed them in two, having come up molten, and cooled now for ever, to show their designs. When we pass the slate- quarries of Easdale this is most striking; there we see the trap standing up high above the surround-

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