44 TRACINGS OF ICELAND AND THE FAROE ISLANDS. the bundles, bags, and other things which are too large to be accommodated in the boxes. To tie the latter articles on with coarse woollen ropes, in such equipoise as may prevent the double burden from being overset—here is the labour and the cumber before starting on an excursion in Iceland. It seemed as if there were to be no end of tying and untying, strapping on and taking off, trying this way and that way : hard work for the guides and ourselves; while round about us stood groups of fishermen and other populace, staring at the work with lacklustre eyes and open mouths, as if unable to muster so much intelligence as might enable them to understand what we were about. "We had all provided ourselves with Mackintosh cloaks; and some who were duly forewarned about the journey, were cased in proof to the heel. So was not I, which has only the more impressed on me the duty of recommending every future traveller in Iceland to have some sort of overalls, fishing-boots, or what not, to defend himself, not merely from the only too likely rain, but from the still more likely plash of the horse-tracks, and the flowing rivers he will have to cross. An old hat will be the best covering for his head, as, in the event of his being thrown off, it may save his face and head from injury. Well, at length the strappings, unstrappings, and restrappings come to an end, and we all mount and ride off, forty-one or forty-two horses in all! If right rule had been followed, the guides would have been on before with the reserve and baggage horses, so that that rough tumultuary body would have been out of our way. As it was, we went all confusedly in one line—highly picturesque in general effect, but not very convenient to us. Presently the gentlemen-travellers got themselves separate and ahead, and then things became more agreeable. Por two or three miles, the track is cleared of stones, and not very bad to ride upon. It allowed us to launch out rather briskly. To my agreeable surprise, I kept my seat pretty well, and even found that a hard trot was not attended with either imminent danger or actual suffering. The atmosphere cleared, too; and what with the lively rattling movement, and the social feeling excited by the numbers of our cavalcade, I felt an exhilaration for which I had been totally unprepared. The immediate scenery was, it

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