THREE VISITS TO ICELAND. 151 cheerful bedroom, with another opening off it, where a third bed was made up later. This outer room likewise contains a diminutive billiard table ! The house altogether is superior to any we have yet lodged in here; even Julius’s hotel is behind it in many respects. We were given coffee and cakes, and then Fru Nielsen told us she took tea at 9, and we should have some music in the evening, and a friend, a sysselman (sheriff), was coming to tea with them. For this splendid entertainment we endeavoured to make our- selves as respectable as we could by changing the bedraggled garments .and boots in which we had been floundering about in Thjorsa, and at 9 the kind lady came to summon us. The drawing-room was prettily lighted, and we found the host and another gentleman. Herr Nielsen kindly talked to me and showed me a number of photos. After a little time the sysselman put in his appearance, a quiet shy middle-aged man, and we all went into the next room, where a magnificent “ high tea ” was spread out. There was lamb with white sauce, trout in aspic jelly, some little dishes rather suggestive of the Laura's ?nenu, bread and butter, cold meat, and cakes of all sorts. Excellent tea and milk with other drinks were served to the guests. We had lively conversation at tea. The host, being a Dane, knows but little English and a little Icelandic, and his wife was laughing at his being obliged to try and talk Islenska to an English- woman by way of holding communication. She herself speaks English fairly well, but after A. N. or B. had made a remark she often asked me, “ What does she say ? ” in Icelandic. After tea, music followed. I played Brinley Richards’ “Banks and braes o’ Bonnie Doon,” and B. part of Schumann’s “ Schlummerlied,” and then we begged the lady to sing to us, and she sang various Icelandic songs beautifully; also the sysselman was prevailed on to play some airs from “Mikado,” by heart! Fru Nielsen plays the guitar, but for a long time she would not favour us because

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