THREE VISITS TO ICELAND. 21 hotel we were going to, so perhaps he means to come and see us. At last we got off in one of Laura's boats—the steamer cannot come into the harbour—and were landed on one of the little wooden piers, whence we walked up to our hotel with Mr. F., the Danish agent I have mentioned. Being Icelandic in sympathies, I do not particularly care for Danish agents or merchants, as they despise the island, and try to make all they can out of it; but this man has been civil and rather helpful to A. in the way of information, and perhaps it is a good thing to be put up to the ways, so as not to be cheated; since so many visitors of all sorts seem to come that it rather demoralizes the Icelanders—and tourists are fair game all the world over ! We seem to have fallen on our feet, however, with a very nice man as guide and forager for ponies, &c. He is a medical student, and is returning in the Laura to Copen- hagen, or rather going there for the first time when we go; so I shall have somebody to talk Icelandic with on the return voyage ! This man is called Palsson ; he is short and broad and looks about thirty to thirty-five, has a very pleasant, strong, well-featured face and nice manner. But you seldom meet an Icelander without the latter qualification. Every one is so exceedingly courteous and polite, and strangers take off their hats and salute you in the streets. Indeed, the men of Iceland seem to be always taking off their hats to somebody. We took up our quarters at the “Hotel Island ” (i.e., “ Ice- land”), which we were told was the best. I must first say what a curious town Reykjavik is—but much more of a town than I fancied. The streets are not paved, but have causeways some- times, and good clean hard roads in the middle. The gutters smell a little, but not more than in some Scotch towns; and, indeed, we are often reminded of some little Scotch town. The streets have their names posted up very neatly, exactly

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