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WESTMANNSHAVN—APPROACH TO ICELAND.
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with a range of low coast backed by mountains extending on our
right. It became an interesting occupation for the passengers to
lean over the gunwale or stand in the gallery, and watch the
constant changes of the scenery. Out from Cape Reikianes,
proceeds a series of skerries or sea-rocks, which make the
navigation somewhat critical. Here, likewise, is seen a squat,
round, rocky islet, of the Bass species, having, like it, a slightly
inclined top, white with guano. From the peculiar form and
colour, as seen at a distance, it has been called the Meal-sek—a
term which we were amused to find pronounced by the Danes
precisely as it would be pronounced in Scotland. As we went
along, we could trace nothing on the shore but black rocks. All
seemed as desolate and peopleless as when Ingolf first approached
the island in the ninth century, and flung the door of his house
into the sea, that the waves, carrying it ashore, might determine
the place where he should land. At length a fishing-boat appeared,
and the captain eagerly hailed it, thinking to get some of the men
on board. But they shook their heads mistrustingly, betraying
by the glance they took of the smoke what it was that made them
refuse the invitation. The fact was, that the Thor was the first
steamer which had ever come to Iceland. The simpler kind of
people were sure, we were told, to regard it as something uncanny;
and such proved to be the case. The general terror, however,
did not prevent the approach of a pilot, who proved a much more
civilised-looking person than he of Thorshavn.
It was with almost a childish wonder and curiosity that we
approached Reikiavik. As the capital of a country so out of
the way and peculiar, we hardly knew how to paint it to the
imagination. With a sort of hush, we clustered together on deck,
while the good ship pursued its steam-speeded way amongst a
group of low islands, till, turning an angle, it came full before a
low shore, of a curving form, on which rose a lengthened cluster
of wooden houses, like those which abound in Norway, many of
them bearing flags. We soon found ourselves amidst four or five
merchant-vessels of a moderate size, all of which had likewise
their colours flying. The whole scene, therefore, was of a much
livelier and more civilised character than we had expected. We
could see various clusters of people on the shore, brought together,
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