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WESTMANNSHAVN—APPROACH TO ICELAND. 33 with a range of low coast backed by mountains extending on our right. It became an interesting occupation for the passengers to lean over the gunwale or stand in the gallery, and watch the constant changes of the scenery. Out from Cape Reikianes, proceeds a series of skerries or sea-rocks, which make the navigation somewhat critical. Here, likewise, is seen a squat, round, rocky islet, of the Bass species, having, like it, a slightly inclined top, white with guano. From the peculiar form and colour, as seen at a distance, it has been called the Meal-sek—a term which we were amused to find pronounced by the Danes precisely as it would be pronounced in Scotland. As we went along, we could trace nothing on the shore but black rocks. All seemed as desolate and peopleless as when Ingolf first approached the island in the ninth century, and flung the door of his house into the sea, that the waves, carrying it ashore, might determine the place where he should land. At length a fishing-boat appeared, and the captain eagerly hailed it, thinking to get some of the men on board. But they shook their heads mistrustingly, betraying by the glance they took of the smoke what it was that made them refuse the invitation. The fact was, that the Thor was the first steamer which had ever come to Iceland. The simpler kind of people were sure, we were told, to regard it as something uncanny; and such proved to be the case. The general terror, however, did not prevent the approach of a pilot, who proved a much more civilised-looking person than he of Thorshavn. It was with almost a childish wonder and curiosity that we approached Reikiavik. As the capital of a country so out of the way and peculiar, we hardly knew how to paint it to the imagination. With a sort of hush, we clustered together on deck, while the good ship pursued its steam-speeded way amongst a group of low islands, till, turning an angle, it came full before a low shore, of a curving form, on which rose a lengthened cluster of wooden houses, like those which abound in Norway, many of them bearing flags. We soon found ourselves amidst four or five merchant-vessels of a moderate size, all of which had likewise their colours flying. The whole scene, therefore, was of a much livelier and more civilised character than we had expected. We could see various clusters of people on the shore, brought together,
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Tracings of Iceland & the Faröe Islands

Year
1856
Language
English
Pages
100


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