92 FROM ENGLAND TO TCELAND. cannot hope to reach Reykjavik much before mid- night. Plodding steadily on,across bog and meadow, along winding rain-channels, and over miles of frost hummocks, we find ourselves about ten p.m., much to our satisfaction, once more upon a high road, on which from time to time we have opportunities of again seeing a few of our fellow creatures, as we are frequently passed by men and women driving long trains of ponies. At Heimaey, with her kind permission, I photographed an elderly lady who was riding astride of her pony in man-fashion, and I took it for granted—no doubt correctly—that she was not the only woman in the country who occasionally did so. The general custom, however, is for women to use a side-saddle, which differs from our own in having a circular support for the back, like that of the armchairs familiar to fre- quenters of bar parlours. When walking, it seems to be the invariable custom of women to muffle up their heads in shawls, thus almost entirely concealing their features, and when on horseback they generally wear in addition a many-coloured scarf which crosses their chest like the double shoulder-belts worn by our soldiers in “good King George’s golden days.” Shortly before midnight we arrive in the outskirts of Reykjavik, and being almost as tired as cur wearied ponies, are glad when the familiar outline of the Observatory rises upon the horizon like an old friend to welcome us back. At midnight, “that hour o’ nicht’s black arch the key- stane,” we ride past the windows of the Island Hotel, from which we receive the smiliDg saluta- tions of our worthy captain, several of our ship-

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