CHAPTER III. When I was at home I was in a better place, But travellers must be content.—Shakespeare. Last, night after leaving the Westmann’s Islands we lingered on deck till the weird rocks that stud the ocean on the west of Heimaey had become mere black specks on the silver sea, and the Midnight Sun, which had just set, was filling the heavens with a lialo of crimson and gold as he rose once more on the distant horizon where sea and sky met. But nevertheless we were up early this morning to gaze curiously on the capital of Iceland which we find ourselves rapidly nearing about breakfast time. On our left a huge whale-backed mountain-island rises magnificently from the calm blue sea, almost within a stone’s throw of the extreme point o£ the barren treeless promontory that stretches away for a mile or two in the direction of the town. An iron beacon near the shore, and a few wooden out-buildings and a farm house on the ridge, are the only objects in 1he immediate foreground; and there is not a sign of cultivation of any kind to be seen any where. A round tower—the Observatory —crowns the summit of the promontory and overlooks the strange collection of dingy painted weather-board houses, huts, and sheds, which form the city of Reykjavik, and which extend down the slope to the black, weed-strewn, rock-bound shore, where two or three shelving wooden piers, several barn-like stores, a number of small boats, a few fish- ing smacks, and a group of men engaged in mending their nets, can be distinguished without the aid of a glass. A church,—whose ugly little tower, or c

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