54 FROM ENGLAND TO ICELAND. are no carriages or wheeled conveyances of any kind in Iceland ; at any rate none that I have as yet seen, with the exception of a solitary handcart of American manufacture, which does not appear to have been much longer in the country than ourselves. All travelling is done on pony- back, and every man, woman and child is accustomed to the saddle from infancy. Two ponies have been provided for each of us, including the guide, and one for our baggage, making seven in all. A brief reference to the arrangements made with our guide yesterday may be interesting and useful to intending tourists. We are to pay two kroner (2s 3d) per day for each of the seven ponies which form our cavalcade ; and the guide's fee is five kroner (5s 7|d) per day with food, or six kroner (6s 9d) without. In addition to these items there will be a charge of twenty ore (2jd) per diem for pasturage for each of the ponies, so that our daily expenses for ponies and guide, reckoning the fee of the latter at 6s 9d, will amount to 24s in all, or 12s each person. In addition, however, we have had to provide a supply of bread and tinned provisions for four days, and shall have to pay for bed and breakfast at the parsonage or farmhouse where we may stay for the night; the usual charge for such accommodation being about three kroner. The daily total, including the cost of the food we have purchased, will therefore be not much less than a pound a day, which is what the tourist may expect it to cost him. We are disappointed to find that our valises must be unpacked, and the few necessary articles of clothing which we have decided to take with us transferred to the two strong wooden boxes

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