94 Summer Travelling in Iceland. Meanwhile I had been trying to boil water over a spirit- lamp, an exercise of patience, for snow had first to be melted in sufficient quantity to make tea for two cold, hungry men. Fortified with this and cold mutton smeared with butter, we started at about six to walk the long Danish mile that sepa- rated us from the craters. On the way we stopped to admire Herftubrerg, the broad-shouldered mountain standing out in solitary grandeur, and bearing E.N.E. from Askja. Its summit is said to be inaccessible, though we met an American at Reykjavik who said he had ascended it, and the ‘New York Tribune,’ contained an amusing description of his expedition. Our progress over the rough lava was greatly assisted by the recently-fallen snow, and soon after eight we stood on the pumice crater, a cone thrown up during the recent eruption, and apparently wholly composed of pumice-sand. Making our way round to the south side, we lay down with our bodies inclined at a steep angle and looked over the brink into the abyss below. Here we saw a large circular pool of water, boiling furiously. Presently, and without the slightest warning, a column of steam and water leapt up 200 feet, with a loud detonation, subsiding again just as suddenly. A steep descent of 500 feet led to the shore of a large lake, doubtless formed by water ejected from the craters during eruption. But whatever its origin may be, the lake, when I saw it, was a broad sheet of water upwards of four miles in circumference, deep even round the sides, and transparently clear. The tem- perature as measured by me proved to be barely over that of the atmosphere in the shade, or about 540 F.; but from the circumstance that my thermometer happened to be a non- registering one, and that earlier observations by Professor Johnstrup, and more recently by Mr. W. G. Lock, made it much greater, it cannot be accepted as conclusive. We stood on the pumice-covered shore, and looked across the expanse of

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