74 BY FELL AND FJORD. under beautiful archways which seemed all set with diamonds, from the frozen water which had percolated through. Tall spires of ice touched it from the floor; while down in the clear depths below we could see the black shapes of the lava, as Dante saw the traitors, like flies in amber, in the ice of his frozen Inferno. All these caverns, which are said to run two miles underground, must once have been great gas-bubbles in the boiling lava, and the fantastic boulders scattered about in them flung from some furious volcano. Then came the frost-giants and made the place their summer palace. We lit a torch where the cavern was highest, and the ice rises in tall columns all round, and huge fantastic icicles depend from the roof,—the whole place flashed back prismatic colours with a blaze of light which made our two little candles seem very dim when it was out. At the far end of this cave, in a hollow rock, we found seals, and coins, and carved names left by former travellers, some of them dating from early in the century. We added our names, as we were the first ladies who had been in the caverns,—not that there is any special difficulty about going there, but that hardly any ladies do travel in Iceland. We went about a quarter of a mile underground, perhaps further; but I am diffident about giving distances where there is no map to measure—time, not length, being the measure of distances in this country. We were certainly a good while scrambling through the caves, and decided that the outlaws who once inhabited them must soon have become the most rheumatic of men. We returned to Kalmanstunga for coffee, and started thence again at 5 P.M., nothing loath—for though the situation is beau- tiful the house is not, and the inhabitants are rather like the Swiss, without their cleanliness. Our way lay along a hillside, down which Oddur rattled with a complete disregard of any track, which was sometimes his style of riding. On such occasions, when we had picked out our way more slowly down loose stones, over lava, or through bogs, as the case might be, he would ask with sarcastic interest if the ponies were lazy, as if a round trot or hand-gallop were the usual way of descending a rough hill-

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