FISHING IN ICELAND. 95 mass of foam from the upper falls, which no salmon can stem. I shall say no more, for as the simple grandeur of the scenery almost spoils one for other landscapes, so does the sport spoil one for other fishing, and the recollection for other memories. For we who know where it is and how to get there, even we can hardly hope to find the river we left—the ideal is seldom twice attained ; the weather will be less fine, some one else may have found the place ; at any rate, we ourselves shall have grown older, perhaps lazier. All the more do we treasure the memory of that river. And as it may be said that, in speaking of fishing for ladies, I have spoken chiefly not of fishing but of its acces- sories, let me add this last touch to the sketch of my ideal river, that we do not loiter there for mere idle sport; we are probably very hungry, and fishing anxiously for dinner. After all, none know what fishing really can be except those who kill for food, and will get less or worse food if they fail to kill. It is curious how seldom the Icelanders fish with the rod. They take the salmon in boxes in the most wholesale unsports- manlike manner. I have seen from forty to fifty fine grilse and salmon taken at one time out of a little box—the accumu- lation of twenty-four hours. In very hot weather we have seen the men lower little hand-nets under the rocks in the salmon- rivers, and then scare with stones and shouts the salmon, which generally thereupon enter the nets by twos and threes,—I could not clearly understand on what principle. It has also struck me that what we consider good fishing weather is comparatively rare in Iceland ; if cloudy, the weather is apt to be too cold—if fine, too bright, for good fly-fishing. But sometimes there is splendid sport—lively sea-trout, and large salmon-trout, rising freely and rushing about in the swift currents in the most exciting way. The absence of all trees gives one a great advantage in securing fish. The fishing here goes with the land, and leave should be obtained from the farmer or parson who owns it. Some rivers, as Ellida, near Reykjavik, are closely preserved; and it would be better for the fishing in the long-run if more were. There are great complaints of the falling off of the takes in the upper

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