DINNERS. 115 is sometimes in a good family a working housekeeper, often a relation, who lives with the family as an equal; and young girls frequently make a stay at friends’ houses to be trained in house- wifely duties. The servants in the town are generally young lasses, well-mannered, and treated almost as equals, but usually quite untrained to service, and apt to go home or marry as soon as they become valuable. They are generally trimly dressed in the costume, and look very nice. At Reykjavik the ladies dined with us, but almost everywhere up the country they served the dinner, and only the women who were guests sat down with the men. This old Scandinavian custom goes much against the grain of courteous Englishmen, who sometimes quite fidget the society by springing up to prevent some fair Enid from fetching and carrying the dishes for them. But I am bound to say the ladies do not wait respectfully—they join in the conversation, and give their orders, and are considered the givers of the feast. As soon as it is ended, every one rises and shakes hands with the mistress of the house, saying, “ Thanks for the meal,” to which she answers, “May it do you good;” and then there is often hand-shaking all round, like the last figure in the lancers. At a formal dinner the gentleman who takes a lady in to dinner also takes her out again, even when he returns later to the wine, which did not occur often when I was present. Then we used to have talk, and sometimes good music, just as at home. The soup is often sweet soup, made with sago, claret, and cinnamon. I acquired a taste for it, and much more easily a taste for the national dish slcyr, a sort of sour curd, like the laboun of the East, but very superior in that it is eaten with plenty of rich cream. When well made it is very good and also nourish- ing, and is a staple dish at every dairy farm. Fish and mutton, both excellent, are the standing dishes. Many little condiments, or appetite-whetters, are about on the table to amuse the intervals, such as thin slices of raw salmon, sausage, caviare, odd pickles, cheese, and even whale ; and there are plates of bread in slices, alternately black and white. A quantity of butter is consumed, even by children, as it is good

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