124 BY FELL AND FJORD. Danish proverb, “ God made the world, but the devil made Ice- land,” which had seemed such a libel among the soft valleys in the west or the fine hills in the north, we felt at last was in a degree accounted for. A rain-storm added to the mess; but we splashed through a dismal marsh, which, being green, seemed comparatively cheerful, to the little farm of Krisuvik, beneath a startling hill which rears right up in a cone in front of it. Here we took refuge in a tiny chapel where service is held once in six weeks. M'Kenzie says it is eighteen feet by eight, and he is probably right. Viewed ecclesiastically, it seems calculated for one hermit only ; but it reminded us rather of an old - clothes shop from the garments hanging from the beams. We shut the shutters, lit the candles, unpacked the bread and ham, while hot coffee and skyr came from the farm, and we thought ourselves most comfortable, reading aloud from a saga till bedtime, when my friend spread her cork bed on a bag of beans, and I poised mine on the top of the family chest, while the- wind and the rain battered outside, and before long lulled us to sleep. News of a fine day came with the lassie who brought the morning coffee, and we were soon afoot looking at the then un- worked mines, and very curious they were. A valley and hill- side of hot white clay were traversed by a little yellowish stream- let, above were black rocks, and red mud banks sloped down to the white mud below. Bright-coloured varieties of stones and clay were strewn about, formed no doubt by the play of sulphur and ferric compounds ; and the whole place was dotted with puffs of vapour, in which some of the sulphur was escaping into the air, in combination, to judge by the smell, with hydrogen—but a good deal was deposited in powder or crystals round each little crater, and more no doubt might be condensed. In the wide valley below lay a little lake of as intense a blue-green as any in Switzerland; great boulders strewed in verdureless shores, and cinder-like hills trended away northward, glowing red and purple in the brilliant atmosphere. Following carefully in our guide’s footsteps over the white clay and the red mud, we climbed to the top of the little hill. The ground was every-

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