NEW VOLCANOES. 151 on the hills. We were now in a confused scene of hills and valleys, rocks tilted all ways, and lava currents and ashes flung over them, the scene of grand volcanic action. There is some- thing like it on Vesuvius, but on a smaller scale, for there the volcano seems an accident in a fair habitable country, like a forge in a village ; but here Nature is triumphant,—few eyes have seen these furnaces, no touch of man’s hand has ever been felt. There was not a scrap of verdure, hills and valleys alike were reddish-brown or black ; but streaks of red occurred, and yellow stones were strewn about. The contrast was wonderful between the unity of the colouring and the mad diversity of form; between the shapes which were molten and twisted, and the matter which was hard still stone. We halted in an ashy valley, where further riding was impos- sible, for we were on the edge of the field of new lava, every- where cloven and broken up, and of a reddish hue. Across the valley was a finely shaped mountain-range, the extinct volcano of Kratatinkr, and a series of new low volcanic cones still smok- ing and streaked with yellow and red incrustations. The lava- bed was about twenty feet deep at the edge—the gentlemen re- ported it as deeper further on. But I did not go far, as, though it was very rough and distorted, it was also so brittle as to be hard climbing, so I preferred making a sketch of the wild place. It was now about 10 p.m. They said we had ridden twenty-eight miles. We had to return, and how we found our way over the lava- valleys I hardly know; but in due time we got back to the cream brothers, who had valsed amicably a few hundred yards on their way home, wTith the double motion of a planet on its axis and in its orbit. As no water was near, we rode on in the darkness, trusting much to the ponies, till in about an hour we reached grass and heard running water. Here, therefore, we put up the tent, I holding the little lamp to the pegs, to help the men to drive them in, for it was quite dark. The little tent had a cheery effect, shining golden-brown in the night when the lamp was hooked on the pole. The cold meat was unpacked, and a good

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