GRIMSA. 197 catacomb, the whole place being hollowed in the earth, and yet the inhabitants looked healthy. It is whispered that they eat horse-flesh, and nothing is better for the complexion. The prestr insisted on our coming home with him, and he pitched a comfortable tent for Sigrida and me near his house, tilled it with fragrant hay, and made it pleasant quarters for a lovely summer night. We were close to a deep circular hollow, which is all that remains of a heathen sacrificial temple. I looked out of the tent the last thing at night on the still valley and the surrounding hills, and could just discern the churchyard wall below us, and then a misty whiteness, that elevated itself to a preternatural height above the wall, with a most eerie effect in this haunted place. But after hovering there for a minute, down came, with a palpable plump on the ground, a white pony which had been poaching on the long grass of the church- yard. There was a good garden here where common vegetables grew freely, and even rye was in the ear. It had grown rather stalky, but seemed promising enough to encourage the planting of quick- ripening grain. We were hospitably pressed to stay another day, and all rode out to fish near a waterfall in the upper waters of the Grimsa. The priest mounted me on a fine pony, sent to his care as being too fiery for Reykjavik: it bucked so high when held in, that I thought it best—having no third pommel—to let it go and choose its own way over the rough boggy country, which it did with great intelligence, only it mistook our route, —and when it discovered that the rest of the party, far behind, were deflecting in another direction, it dashed across country in a most reckless style to rejoin them. Constant solitary wanderings give these ponies extraordinary dexterity in getting over rough ground: most English horses would not have dared to put one foot before another in some places where this little Icelander went on without a moment’s hesitation, and at a good round pace. He broke through the river at no particular ford; but happily it was low,—too low for fishing. We saw many fish but got few; the weather was also too sunny; and where was

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