244 BY FELL AND FJORD. Numerous old women, of position, doubtless, sat also on the cross-bench,—black-hooded, like crows, according to the costume of the district. Far in the Rembrandt-like shadows of the dark- brown interior, a man was standing up singing something very long, to a tune which, as it had no beginning, threatened to have no end. May Wagner never find it and weave it into an “ endless melody:” it recalled his style, and reminded one of his operas. The rest of the company all sat, and a great silence prevailed. No small-talk, no frivolous whispers, took off from the solemnity of the scene, which was picturesque in its way,—for some women were well dressed, and some of the older men wore red caps, which gave a little positive colour to the browns and blacks which pre- vailed. Room was made for us next the bride and bridegroom, and we were kindly supplied with food. Great wooden bowls contained messes strange to our eyes : the guests took their por- tions on rimless wooden platters ; so things were apt to slip off. There were a few finely-shaped silver spoons, which, as well as the knives, seemed mostly private property. There was a lull in the eating when we were there ; but drink circulated briskly, quaffed in a curious variety of vessels—teacups, glasses, horns, and even some silver tankards of fine old plate. And what drink ! I sipped a little to the health of the married pair : it was so strong that it almost choked me, and tasted like something meant to clean furniture. I am afraid that it is doing the society no in- justice to say that none of the men whom we observed looked quite sober,—and many were decidedly tipsy; but no one seemed concerned,—neither the men, who were very civil, but somewhat incapable—nor the women, who, as a matter of course, did their work. The bride chatted in a friendly way: she wore a great crown of artificial flowers, not becoming to a sonsy but weather-beaten face. When we rose to take leave, and Miss Menzies presented her with a leather aumoniere she wore, the company shook off their stolid appearance,—they all started up and drank to us with shouts of applause. There were no carrioles ; but a woman and a girl harnessed ponies to two tax-carts, and I drove my

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