KEYKJAVIK AND THE PONIES. 15 natural grass only grows in a few sheltered places. But in fine weather the views are beautiful. There is a pretty walk by a little lake which bounds the town to the south; but the best views are westward, near a headland where we often strolled to see the sunsets blazing away behind Snaffell Jokull. There are grand mountains to the north-west; a lower coast with strange volcanic formations, trends away south, as far as the eye can see. There in the spring-time the inhabitants watch day by day for the first streak of the smoke of the steamer which returns from the outer world after an interval of four months. The men watch the sky with their glasses, and the boys are always waiting ready to rush to the town with the good news of the arrival of the mail. The first ride in Iceland was memorable to us. We started in the broad sunshine of ten o’clock at night in June, and rode a few miles to a lonely sea inlet, where there was a drove of 250 ponies destined for our steamer. A bevy of wild lads and girls on barebacked ponies, with bits of stick and reins of string, careered about; there was also our supercargo, mounted on the pick of the drove, a most dainty high-stepping pony—too good, as they phrase it, for himself; there was our engineer, too, suffering great things, holding on to an animal that ‘ wouldn’t steer ; ” and our guide the Icelander, Oddur Gislason, who seemed in command,—and we all proceeded to drive the herd of ponies to Reykjavik. A splendid sunset lighted the Faxafjord and surrounding hills, and the brown stony waste over which we cantered, chasing and driving the ponies, who, with their tumbling hog-manes and wild heads, neighing, kicking, and scouring here and there, were wonderfully picturesque. Then by our watches rather than the ®ky, we realised for the first time in the north that it was mid- night, broad “daylight,” but hushed and still; the little islets ln the neighbouring sea were covered with ducks, asleep on their nests; nothing stirred though all was bright. The red clouds °f the sunset still lingered in the north-west, and close by was the clear pale-yellow light of dawn, marking the place where

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