ROUTE I.—TO GEYSIR AND HEKLA. Ill the ponies (the spot where these will be left will probably depend a great deal on the guide: Burton says, ‘We rode up half-way. . .. At an impassable divide we left our poor nags to pass the dreary time without water or forage’) will bring the party to the 1845 lava crater. Owing to the action of ‘ frost and fire’ it is in a very ruinous condition, but the lava-flood which here found exit well marks its site. Burton says : ‘ The only remnant is the upper lip prolonged to the right; the dimensions may have been 120 by 150 yards, and the cleft shows a projecting ice-ledge ready to fall. . . . A little beyond this bowl the ground smokes, discharging snow- steam made visible by the cold air.’ A quarter of an hour’s climb distant is another crater, known as the Southern Crater. ‘ It is a regular formation about 100 yards at the bottom each way, with the right (east) side red and cindery, and the left yellow and sulphury; mosses and a few flowerets grow on the lips; in the sole rise jets of steam, and a rock-rib bisects it diagonally from north- east to south-west.’ (Burton.) From this to the northern or ‘Bed Crater,’ the walk is not difficult along a snow-covered ridge, with here and there hot patches of earth showing through. The north-east lip of this crater, as mentioned before, is the highest point of the mountain. Burton, who speaks very disparagingly of Hekla and terms it ‘ a common-place heap’ and ‘a mere pigmy’ (a pigmy of 5,108feet!), thus describes the view from its summit. ‘ Inland, beyond a steep snow-bed unpleasantly crevassed, lay a grim photograph all black and white; Langjokull looking down upon us with a grand and freezing stare; the Hrafntinnu Yalley marked by a dwarf cone, and beyond where streams head, the gloomy regions stretching to the Sprengisandr, dreary wastes of utter sterility, howling deserts of dark ashes, wholly lacking water and vegetable life, and wanting the gleam and the glow which light up the Arabian wild. Skaptar and Orsefa were hidden from sight. Seawards, ranging from west to south, the view, by contrast, was a picture of amenity and civilisation. Beyond castellated Hljo’Sfell and conical SkjaldbrefS appeared the familiar forms of Esja, and the long lava projection of the Gold Breast country, melting into the western main. Hearer stretched the fair lowlands, once a broad deep bay, now traversed by the network of Olfusa, Thjorsa, and the Markarfljot; while the sixfold bunch of the "Westman Islands, mere stone lumps upon a blue ground, seemingly floating far below the raised horizon, lay crowned by summer sea. Eastward we distinctly traced the Fiskivotn. Bun the eye along the southern shore, and again the

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