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GUIDE TO ICELAND.
extensive tracts of lava in the interior, in a direct line with the
peninsula eastward to Askja, seem to point to the existence of
a volcanic channel running due west from that great central
‘ Plutonic ’ outlet. (See Geological Description of Iceland,
Chapter II.)
Twenty-eieth Day.—Hitardalr to Reykholt. An hour’s ride
down the valley will bring the party to Staz&arTiraun, and thence
they will proceed to Reykholt by the same route as was travelled
going westward. It would not be a bad plan, if any of the
travellers have rods with them, to halt at Stafholt and have two
or three days’ fishing before going on to Reykholt, that the ponies
may recruit. We will therefore allow two days. The party can
return from here to Reykjavik in three days. See Eoute IV.
Twenty-eighth Day. — Reykholt to Kalmamtunga (Kalman’s-
tongue). Before quitting the Reykholtsdalr, a tent should be
borrowed from the pastor or one of the farmers, and an additional
man and ponies to transport it to and from the Arna/rvatnshei^i
(Eagle-lake-heath), where it would be advisable to camp out the
second night after leaving Reykholt. It is seventeen hours’ journey,
with pack-ponies, from Kalmamtunga to Ilaukagil, the first farm on
the east side of the elevated plateau that has to be crossed, and
there is no farm on the way. A hut built as a hospice stands on
the heath near the largest of the lakes, the Arnarvatn; but a recent,
and not over-fastidious, traveller says he found its interior in such
a filthy state that it1 forbade intrusion.’ If a tent is not procurable,
this hut might be cleaned out, and the travellers in their ‘ Garnets ’
and box-beds will surely be able to tolerate one night there. This
is the only occasion when a tent is really needed between Reykjavik
and Akureyri by this route. A few days can be agreeably spent
among the Pish-lakes on the Arnarvatnshei^i (See Chapter III.).
There is no farm nearer than KalmamUinga. The author was told
by a party of Cambridge men, who encamped near the lakes last
summer (1881), that they caught as many as seventy large trout
in a day.
At Kalmansthnga the accommodation is very poor, and the farmer
is said to be extortionate; but those who complain at his charges
should remember that the coffee, sugar, meal for the bread, and
every article of food not produced on the farm, has to be brought
a two to three (=to four and six, going and returning) days’ journey
from the nearest trading-station. ■ The farm is situated in the midst
of rich grass land, surrounded by surpassingly grand Alpine scenery.
Twenty-ninth Day. — Kalmamtunga to the Arnarvatnshei^&i ;
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