ROUTE III.--A SUMMER’S TOUR IN ICELAND. 137 travellers to the door of the farm near Hilar church—once a cathedral. A commodious house, and very hospitable farmer. The sacred edifice is built of a peculiar red tuff; its ground-plan would he a right-angled parallelogram thirty paces in length by ten paces in breadth, were it not that about eighteen feet from the front of the building it becomes of less width by six feet or so on each side. It has a ridge roof of wood: seven good-sized rect- angular windows in the north wall, and six on the south; one each side of the doorway in front, three above to light a loft under the roof, and a small one above these. Inscribed in a stone over the door is the date of rebuilding, a.d. 1762. Within, the height is about fourteen feet, and the ceiling is flat with a loft above. Quite one-third of the interior lies within an altar screen, gaudily painted. This is a stout balustrade above panels in which are painted allegorical figures, Faith, Hope, Charity, Plenty, etc. The altar, at the time of the author’s visit, was covered with a very old leather altar-cloth, embossed in gold, with tapestry hangings. On the wall at the east end of the church, over the altar, is a richly-carved altar-piece in a case, whose doors when open form wings to the main subject—a Crucifixion, about five feet in height, with men on horses, women weeping, etc. The two thieves have their legs and arms broken in a most unmistakable manner. The wings formed by the doors contain figures of the Apostles, Virgin Mary and others ; some with remarkably well-carved faces ; and on the outsides are painted two scriptural pieces, one, Christ ap- pearing to Mary Magdalene; the other, the martyrdom of St. Jude, who is hound to a tree and being shot at with arrows by two men in armour. Within the altar-screen on the north wall, between the font and the altar, hangs a life-size figure of Christ on the Cross, carved in wood ; and close by is a large oil painting of the Lord’s Supper. The floor is largely composed of flat grave tablets, beneath which repose a number of bishops; and about a dozen of their portraits in oil adorn the walls. There is also a needle-work portrait of one, framed and glazed. In the belfry, the upper part of the narrowed-in portion of the edifice in front, are four old hells, one a very large one, hut broken. The floor of the loft was strewed with Bibles and old theological works, many of which were printed here in the latter part of the sixteenth century. It is a great pity that these rare old works should he left here to he destroyed by the damp. The first printing press brought to Iceland was established here early in the sixteenth century—1530, it is believed. Thirty-fourth Day.—Hilar to Vellir (Fields). The route taken

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