ROUTE III.—A SUMMER’S TOUR IN ICELAND. 139 and Jensen himself is one of the most obliging, honest hosts that it has ever been the author’s fate to fall in with. If the four beds in the hotel part of his buildings are taken up, he will obtain sleeping accommodation for the travellers at a private house, and the meals will be taken at the hotel. There is a spacious billiard room here, and a fair billiard board for so far north. One great drawback to a lengthy stay at Alcwreyri is the unconscionable demand that will be made by the neighbouring farmers for pasturage for the ponies. The best plan is to insist upon the guide taking the ponies to a farm on the opposite side of the river at the head of the fjord, where the farmer is a reasonable being, and the pasturage better than on the moors at the back of the town. This should most certainly be done if the travellers intend to proceed eastward to ‘ The Tire Focus of the North,’ as in calm weather it is far more pleasant to transport oneself and baggage to the east side of the fjord by boat, than to ride round the head of it and through half a dozen river channels—the ponies being ordered to meet one at the farm opposite Alcureyri. Two days will be allowed in Alcureyri, before starting eastward. This town has a population of about 400, and is the residence of the ‘ Amtma’Sr,’ or Lieutenant-Governor, of the northern half of the island, and several other officials ; also of a doctor and an apothecary. There are four stores and resident merchants, an excellent saddle-maker, and a baker—who, by-the-bye, is likewise a photographer. The town also boasts a hospital and a jail—in the former a hot bath is obtainable, and in the latter the public free library may be inspected. Alcureyri, it will be seen, is ahead of many considerable towns in our own isles in one thing at least— a free library. There are, moreover, two printing establishments, at each of which a newspaper is printed. There are three or four fine mountain-ash trees in the town, of which the ‘ Akureyriites ’ are very proud. There is a recently erected spacious wooden church, which is kept in excellent order, but everything about it is quite modern and of little interest. The store and meat-preserving house at Oddeyri will well repay a visit: and a stroll to the Glerd will be well rewarded by a sight of. the very pretty fall formed by the river about half a mile from the fjord. An excellent photograph of the fall is obtainable from the baker in Alcureyri. Sea trout are sometimes to be caught— with worms only—in the pool beneath the foss. The gloomy black building between Alcureyri and Oddeyri is a shark oil factory; the stench from which, when the wind is from

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