146 GUIDE TO ICELAND. the valley, if allowed to range, will find a covey or two of grouse among the birch. Hot the least interesting of the phenomena to be observed here, are the sections of subterranean channels, in which molten lava flowed prior to the convulsion which caused the sub- sidence, that are shown in the cliffs. A well-defined channel is accessible by scrambling up the debris at the base of the cliff on the south, about midway through the valley, and here the travellers may secure some specimens of the ropy scoriaceous surface of the core of lava that now remains congealed in this subterranean duct. The ride through this weird and wonderful valley is very im- pressive : one seems to be shut completely out of the world by the immense cliffs on either hand, which permit but a glimpse of a strip of sky above one’s head. The echo is remarkably good. After quitting the eastern outlet of the valley, a short ride will bring the travellers to their quarters for the night at A's farm. There are two homesteads, but both very poor ones ; and as the westernmost alone boasts any other room than the Ba^stofa in which one can sit down, it will be best to seek accommodation there. ‘ Garnet Wolseleys’ or box-beds will enable the night to bo passed in tolerable comfort. People obliging, and abundance of milk, coffee and pancakes procurable. Fokty-eoukth Day.—A’s to ReylcjahKS, visiting en route the lllji^&aklettar (Sounding or Speaking-cliffs) and the Dettifoss. Make an early start, as the party will be ten hours in the saddle. The first part of the day’s journey will lie up the valley of the Joliulsa, a river valley which for wildness of scenery and magnificent falls it would not be easy to find a compeer. The Hljo^aklextae are a group of craters and amorphous masses of rock standing isolated in the valley west of the river, which appear like the ruins of a vast castle; and so perfectly do they echo back sounds one can fancy them the home of Mocking Genii, or, as observed in the introductory chapter, that Echo changed into stone here and not on the banks of the Cephlsus. These rocks with their surroundings form a landscape which, if faithfully transferred to canvas on a large scale, would make the fortune of the artist. Half an hour’s ride hence will bring the travellers to the only farm that will be seen in this day’s journey, Svmadalr (Swine-dale). People obliging, and coffee, milk and pancakes are to be had while the ponies rest for an hour. Upon the way a fine fall, the Viga- Ijargsfoss, will be passed. A flat rock will be noticed on the opposite side of the foss, with a narrow approach on the east. Tradition sayeth that the famous outlaw, Grettir the Strong, was once attacked

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