148 GUIDE TO ICELAND. A few hundred yards upstream, the Johulsa forms a very pretty preliminary fall well worthy of a visit, it being somewhat remarkable. The river is about 250 yards across at this spot, and the channel is intersected by a horse-shoe-shaped ridge of basalt about 20 feet in height. This is battlemented, and through the embrasures, which have been formed by the carrying aw-ay of blocks of basalt, the water leaps in a multitude of miniature cascades. Upon leaving the Dettifoss, the travellers will strike across-the pathless Myvatns Orcefi in a south-westerly direction for a pass in the volcanic range on the west of the desert. It will, in all pro- bability, be necessary to dismount several times, and lead the ponies into and out of hollows where subsidences have taken place during volcanic eruptions ; but there are no insurmountable difficulties to prevent any one crossing this desert region: the author has upon more than one occasion scoured it in all directions for several days together in search of reindeer. If the travellers wish to get a shot at one of these animals, they should, if here in the month of August, strike due west from the Dettifoss for a lake near a mountain named JL'il'ifr (the Eternal). South-west of this lake is an abandoned ruinous farm-house, known as Hl’r&arJueli (Ledge-hall), wherein the author has frequently passed a night, as it is right in the heart of the habitat of a herd of reindeer. It will take about three hours to cross the Orceji to the Namaskar'fi (Solfatara-pass), the defile in the volcanic range. At the base of the mountain south of the pass will be noticed a plain of light-coloured earth, from which clouds of steam ascend. This is the chief of the famous Myvatn solfatarar, and the clouds of steam ascend from a number of cauldrons of boiling mud. A halt should not be made to examine these now, as this can be more conveniently done on the morrow, which will be devoted to the exploration of the volcanic phenomena east of Myvatn. The travellers will doubtless be struck with the great difference in the nature of the landscape on the west side of the range to that on the east, which is an arid fire-blasted wilderness of volcanic ash, lava and sand. Bounding a projecting spur of the mountain on the north side of the pass, the circumscribed view of an unusually gloomy defile, wherein but a few blades of coarse grass clothe the acclivities, changes as if by enchantment to one over a wide expanse of lake, environed on the south and east with volcanoes, and studded with volcanic isles—miniature quiescent Strombolis, whose weather-worn crater-cones rise from bases green with a prolific growth of angelica and grasses; their verdure presenting

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