164 GUIDE TO ICELAND. ‘Yawning fissures in the ice came frequently across the way, sometimes of great width, and compelling us to go right round; very beautiful to look into, hut of a frightful depth, and lit up with a blue-green colour. Delighted by every prospect of accom- plishing what the good people of Reykjavik had declared impos- sible, I strove to reach the summit before night. But the guide complaining of some sickness that he felt, and since the evening had already set in, I found it necessary to retrace the way—no easy matter upon ice—a.nd find somewhere to pass the night on terra firma. ‘ That night was spent upon the mountain. With a stone and a piece of waterproof upon it for our pillow, this man and I slept in the open air. At daybreak, half-past two, we set to work again— by the light of a splendid sunrise, Oriental in beauty and grandeur. None of the vapour of England rose here to prevent our view of two seas (BrerSifjbriSr and EaxafjorSr) at once; while the low coasts and harbours around each lay spread out underneath us like a map. . . At first the ice and snow work was a pretty piece of business, for it had all frozen over since last evening, and afforded scarcely any footing whatever, so, until the rising sun had some- what thawed the surface, w.e were hardly able to make any head. However, by cutting a step here and there, we overcame the slopes of ice; and by seven o’clock, or somewhat about that time, in four hours after commencing the ice work, arrived within only a quarter (stc) of the highest point.’ Here the guide, who had been showing signs of giving in for some time, ‘ at last sank right down upon the snow, utterly powerless to proceed another step, with blood from his ears and in his eyes. . . He was evidently unable to breathe atmosphere so rarified and thin; directly, therefore, he was able to move, we descended, having lost the grandest oppor- tunity of doing what, in Iceland, would have made any man, native or foreigner, immortal.’ In conclusion his lordship says, Having 1 given some faint outlines for the benefit of travellers to come, I wish the evil genius who lives upon it—farewell; and hope the laurels which I did not win, may fall upon that man, who, more favoured by Eortune, shall first succeed in making the ascent. The earlier in the summer this glacier is attempted, the easier it will he; for the ice has not cracked and split into chasms like we now had to encounter, and the winter snow, still un- dissolved, remains in one steady slope the whole way up. making allowance for the possibility of places where one might sink in, if the chasms of last year have been only partly drifted over.’ Erom

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