ROUTE IV.----UP THE WEST COAST. 167 ‘ There was something awfully grand in the scene. There were the dark blue mountains, snow-capped and precipitous, which lined the opposite shore, and towered, one above another, far inland—solemn and forbidding to look at. Heavy clouds lowered over the fjord, and clung to the mountains towards the sea. Huge masses of rock, tom off from the heights and hurled into the valley below, were lying all around us—awful witnesses of the fury of the Arctic winters in these wind-swept regions—while hundreds of dead sea-fowl floated on the surf, and the whitened bones of whales and ponies were scattered along the beach. At the point where we then were, the fjord was about three miles broad ; for we had come down a side valley, and had struck the fjord a considerable distance from its head.’ Allowing three days for an assault upon the Gldmu Jokull, if practicable from the head of the I’safjor'&r, the Sixteenth Day.—Kirkjubol to Hamar (Crag). Three hours’ ride only ; an easy day to rest the ponies for the fatigues of to-morrow. Good road, says Shepherd, ‘ over a shingly beach, with good grass above it, and, occasionally, small woods of scrub, in which we shot a few ptarmigan.’ At hamar Shepherd’s party were made very welcome, and the farmer provided a boat and men for excursions on the fjord, hamar is the best farm to make head-quarters, as from here it is but two hours’ ride to Armuli, at the foot of the Drang a Jokull, where a guide can be obtained. It is also but ten hours’ row in calm weather to the town of Jsafjor&r, which ranks next in im- portance to Reykjavik. It is about the same distance to Kleifar farm, at the head of the Skotufjor&r, whither the travellers will proceed to attack the Gldmu Jokull if it is unassailable, from the head of the Jxafjiir&r. Seventeenth Day.—Ascent of the Drdnga Jokull. Shepherd obtained his guide at a farm about two hours’ ride from hamar, in the Skjaldfunnardalr, a valley leading up into the Jokull south of Armuli. The ascent is up this valley, and is thus described by Shepherd: ‘ We left the farm at 1‘30, and proceeded up the northern branch of the valley,’ which narrowed in ‘until it assumed the dimen- sions of a ravine,- and the torrent was roaring beneath us between two walls of snow, two or three hundred feet deep. At 3'15 our guide declared the ponies could go no farther, and we gladly dis- mounted, leaving them in the charge of Olavur. The barometer which stood at 29° at the sea-level now marked 28° 27'. Our small barometer was left with Olavur, with instructions to move the pointer over the indicator exactly at 5 o’clock.

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