INTRODUCTION. 9 Danish and French men-of-war will he in the harbour, and the officers away on an excursion with most of Zoega’s ponies. It is cheaper and better to buy ponies for a tour which is to extend much over a month, fair riding ponies being obtainable for about £7 each, and pack-ponies for from £4 to £5, and to hire them for one of less duration. Tourists cannot do better than buy from Zcega, writing of course beforehand asking him to have the number required ready to leave Reykjavik the day after that appointed for the arrival of the Camoens. Zoega supplied a party last year (1881) with very fair riding and baggage ponies indeed at the prices just mentioned. "With reference to guides, Zoega has always several qualified men in readiness to travel with those hiring or buying ponies from him. His nephew is, without exception, the best guide on the island, having been in almost every part of it: he crossed the interior vid the Sprengisandr (Bursting-sand) last summer with the party above alluded to as having purchased ponies from his uncle. At the various trading posts round the coast there is seldom any diffi- culty in picking up one or two men speaking English, generally young students home for their summer vacation, and from half a dozen to a dozen ponies. There are also several men—one a schoolmaster named Gudmunsen, living at Akranes, who is a very good man—who make a business in the summer of conducting parties of tourists about, and who, when disengaged, board the Camoens directly she arrives at Reykjavik. Further information on the subject of guides and ponies will be found in the Section devoted to Outfit. The two hotels which the capital boasts are not expensive, if somewhat primitive; four kroner per diem being the charge for bed, morning-coffee and rusks, and three meals. Smith’s hotel— formerly a club-house—ranks first, being the largest, but Japhets- son’s is very comfortable, though smaller; and the author, when he stayed there in 1878, found the proprietor exceptionally obliging in every way. Apart from the fact that the long-felt desire to visit this wonder- ful volcanic isle will be gratified, the three and a half to four days’ voyage direct to Reykjavik, and the tour to pingvellir, Gey sir, and Hekla, have much to recommend them to those who have but a month or so’s summer vacation. In the months of July and August, gales are of rare occurrence in thq North Sea and North Atlantic between Scotland and Iceland, consequently a smooth water passage is the rule rather than the exception, while the

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