98 GUIDE TO ICELAND. in tints unknown to Europe, peeped over each other’s shoulders into the silver mirror at their feet; while here and there, from among their purple ridges, columns of white vapour rose like altar smoke toward the tranquil heaven.’ The Saga reader will probably regard this classic locality much as Waller did, who says: ‘ It is almost impossible to give any idea of the feelings of deep interest with which I regarded every inch of this romantic spot, and tried to imagine what an appearance it must have presented 900 years ago. I wondered where Hallger’Sa’s booth was. I know that it was just down by the water that Gunnar first saw her sitting in the doorway. Njal’s booth, too, was some two or three hundred yards down the river on the other side. It was here that the desperate battle took place between Njal’s assassins and his avengers, and it was between the water and the lava that so many of them were killed.’ Altogether pingvellir is a charmingly romantic old-world spot, which pen cannot describe; a spot where scenery wild and weird is found hallowed by historical associations of no common order. It is indeed a spot, if such exists on earth, 1 Where two foes each other meeting Would exchange a friendly greeting: Where a man, intent on spoil, Would stop short ’shamed of approaching As if fearful of encroaching On a consecrated soil.’ The simple plain wooden church, and the parsonage, mainly built of turf and rugged blocks of lava, owing to their very sim- plicity, are in keeping with the surroundings: a huge modem church would be an anachronism. "With reference to the Hrafnagja, though longer it is not as wide nor deep as the western rift, and as an hour can be devoted to its examination on the way to the Geysir on the morrow, it is hardly worth while to ride three miles each way to see it. Respecting the sporting capabilities of the neighbourhood, grouse are most years very plentiful in the month of August among the birch scrub, which flourishes over the tract lying between the rifts, it being sheltered by the more elevated country on either hand. As to fishing, those anglers who have tried to beguile the finny inhabitants of the lake have been very unsuccessful, landing but a few small ‘foreller’ (Any. trout). Thus the author believes the char here, like those in Myvatn (which he has several times tried to allure, but in vain), will not take the artificial fly. A

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