INTRODUCTION. 5 find accommodation for more than that number and their guide. The truism that two are company while three are not, holds good in Iceland as elsewhere, and three persons would probably require two guides, hut one will suffice for two, as they would invariably go out together when making short tours, shooting or fishing. Some may perhaps think it would be better to make up a party of half a dozen or so, and take a tent, and he independent of the farm-houses altogether; however, the author’s opinion is that pro- longed tent-life in Iceland is a mistake, and likely to sour the temper of the most enthusiastic and genial of tourists. It’s all very well for a few days when reindeer-stalking, or fishing and shooting among the ‘Fish-lakes,’ as described in Route 3, or while awaiting an eruption of the Geynr. The pleasure of a tour in Iceland—and every other country, it may he said—is in a pre- cisely inverse ratio to the amount of baggage taken; and the daily packing up and unpacking of a couple of tents, and their acces- sories, causes great delays, and soon becomes to be considered an abominable nuisance. Two tents would have to he taken, one for the men, otherwise excursions in thinly-peopled districts would he impracticable, as the party would be compelled to encamp every night in the vicinity of a farm, that their employes might seek the shelter of its roof. Moreover, it must he borne in mind that each tent—with cooking apparatus, oil to burn in it, etc.—would need two pack-ponies, if a tour of any length is made, or rapid travelling desired ; and a supply of provisions for a large party would entail the hire or purchase of a large number of ponies, for, as previously stated, two will he required for the transport of every one and a half cwt. of baggage taken, and a large number of ponies would necessitate the engagement of several men to drive and look after them. An extended tour in Iceland is only to he economically made with any degree of comfort by travelling two in company, and in as light marching order as possible—say one and a half cwt. of baggage between the two, depending wholly on the farms for quarters, and mainly for provisions. The author fancies he hears some one say, Yes, it’s very fine telling us all this, hut ‘ we have heard with our ears and seen in hooks with our eyes ’ the Icelandic farm-houses described as wretched hovels, and have also heard that no food fit for a civilized palate is obtainable; while, moreover, is it not on record in the hook of ‘ Umbra,’ that a tourist hight Digwell, the author of the plaintive lament which bears his name, perished of starvation during a tour in this ultima Thule, and was buried at Mosfell ?

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