118 GUIDE TO ICELAND. little distance, and found a cairn. “ It is Gunnar’s grave,” said my companion, an old Icelander, “ Here they buried him ; and beneath yon boulder of lava-rock they put his bright clothes and armour, and no one has dared to touch them to this day. But though his body was laid here in its grave, his spirit rested not in the stony chamber, for on the starlit nights the war-songs he had sung in life were heard again upon the hill-side, and magic lights were seen tb burn within the cairn.” ’ Tenth Day. — Excursion to 'porsmork, and thence to Asar (? Gods) ; a long and roughish day’s work, and an early start and local guide indispensable. This day’s journey must, and the subsequent ones should, be made in the lightest possible marching order; therefore guns, ammunition, rods, and all dispensable baggage should be sent by a man and ponies, obtained here or at Brei^a- bohtarSir, down to ICross (25th day), to await the travellers’ return. The Markarfijot will have to be ferried or forded shortly after setting out. This excursion is said to be one of the grandest that is to be made in Iceland. The author has never ceased to regret that circumstances—ice-fringed rivers in the month of October— prevented him paying a visit to a place that is described as ‘ the most charming and romantic spot in all Iceland.’ \6rsmork is a remarkably wild portion of the valley of the Markarflj6t, at a spot where it is narrowed in by the Tindfjalla Jokidl, on the north-west, and the Oo^alands and Merlir Joklar, on the south-east, and it boasts one of ‘ the finest woods in Iceland.’ ’Waller says:—‘ Inside of this extraordinary valley the contortions and shapes assumed by the lava are really wonderful. On one side can be imagined a line of gigantic fortresses running on for miles, and on the other great churches and temples mixed up in most curious confusion. Above these come the towering crags, topped by precipitous green glaciers, piled up and up until they are lost in the clouds; and from the junction of rock and ice, leaping like rainbows out of the sky, shoot countless waterfalls, making a series of exquisite arches as they fall into the valley below. At the extreme end of this place .... Between the gigantic rocks come sweeping down to the river the loveliest green slopes, some hundreds of them covered with birch-bushes and underwood.’ The tourist must not fail to ask his guide to show him on his way to ]}orsmdrk ‘the largest tree in Iceland,’ a solitary mountain- ash, at least thirty feet high, standing on the edge of a tremendous chasm, completely sheltered from the weather by huge lava cliffs.

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