6 GUIDE TO ICELAND. True, 0 Doubter, but Iceland has improved in many things since the days of Digwell, and to show that this is so with respect to the Icelanders’ dwellings, and that they are not invariably the hovels it is commonly but fallaciously believed they are, it is only necessary to mention that an English lady, accompanied by her brother, a Colonel in the Army, journeyed about the country for over three months in 1878, unfurnished with a tent ; and she expressed herself perfectly satisfied with the farm-house accommo- dation obtained during her lengthy tour, save upon two occasions. The author can assure the reader that he by no means fared badly during his three summer tours, though he did not have the advantage of a guide-book in which the farms where the best quarters were obtainable were pointed out, and had to trust entirely to his guide, who was frequently, when far distant from his home, as much at sea as the author himself as to which farm to select for quarters for the night. It must be confessed that occasionally, in out-of-the-way places, one has to put up with rather rough accommodation; but at most of the farms and par- sonages mentioned in the Routes laid down in this work, at least one decent match-boarded room will be placed wholly at the service of the travellers, and good eider-down beds with snow- white sheets will be provided. The taking of a ‘ Garnet Wolseley,’ or the travelling sleeping arrangement described in the Section devoted to Outfit, will enable the tourist to tide over a night’s rough quarters occasionally without much inconvenience. It may happen once or twice in the course of a lengthy tour that earlier arrivals will be found in possession of the ‘ guest-room ’ upon the arrival of a party at the best farm in the neighbourhood; and in that case if there is another decent farm within half an hour’s ride the later arrivals should proceed there for quarters, but should there not be, the ‘ Garnets ’ will come into requisition, and the later arrivals will extemporize beds on tables and chairs, or even on the floor. Formerly travellers were allowed to utilize the churches for night quarters ; but thanks to the sacrilegious way in which a party conducted themselves at pingvellir church—among other things throwing boots at the lighted candles standing on the altar, to extinguish them,—the Bishop has very properly commanded that travellers be no longer permitted to sleep in the sacred edifices. At all the well-to-do farms, an abundance of excellent coffee, milk, pancakes, butter, brown rye-bread (usually somewhat stale), and smoked, salted, or fresh mutton and fish, are procurable, and with these and the produce of the rod and gun, if sportsmen, and

(1) Front Board
(2) Front Board
(3) Front Flyleaf
(4) Front Flyleaf
(5) Page [1]
(6) Page [2]
(7) Page [3]
(8) Page [4]
(9) Page [5]
(10) Page [6]
(11) Page [7]
(12) Page [8]
(13) Illustration
(14) Illustration
(15) Page [9]
(16) Page [10]
(17) Page [11]
(18) Page [12]
(19) Page [13]
(20) Page [14]
(21) Page 1
(22) Page 2
(23) Page 3
(24) Page 4
(25) Page 5
(26) Page 6
(27) Page 7
(28) Page 8
(29) Page 9
(30) Page 10
(31) Page 11
(32) Page 12
(33) Page 13
(34) Page 14
(35) Page 15
(36) Page 16
(37) Page 17
(38) Page 18
(39) Page 19
(40) Page 20
(41) Page 21
(42) Page 22
(43) Page 23
(44) Page 24
(45) Page 25
(46) Page 26
(47) Page 27
(48) Page 28
(49) Page 29
(50) Page 30
(51) Page 31
(52) Page 32
(53) Page 33
(54) Page 34
(55) Page 35
(56) Page 36
(57) Page 37
(58) Page 38
(59) Page 39
(60) Page 40
(61) Page 41
(62) Page 42
(63) Page 43
(64) Page 44
(65) Page 45
(66) Page 46
(67) Page 47
(68) Page 48
(69) Page 49
(70) Page 50
(71) Page 51
(72) Page 52
(73) Page 53
(74) Page 54
(75) Page 55
(76) Page 56
(77) Page 57
(78) Page 58
(79) Page 59
(80) Page 60
(81) Page 61
(82) Page 62
(83) Page 63
(84) Page 64
(85) Page 65
(86) Page 66
(87) Page 67
(88) Page 68
(89) Page 69
(90) Page 70
(91) Page 71
(92) Page 72
(93) Page 73
(94) Page 74
(95) Page 75
(96) Page 76
(97) Page 77
(98) Page 78
(99) Page 79
(100) Page 80
(101) Page 81
(102) Page 82
(103) Page 83
(104) Page 84
(105) Page 85
(106) Page 86
(107) Page 87
(108) Page 88
(109) Page 89
(110) Page 90
(111) Page 91
(112) Page 92
(113) Page 93
(114) Page 94
(115) Page 95
(116) Page 96
(117) Page 97
(118) Page 98
(119) Page 99
(120) Page 100
(121) Page 101
(122) Page 102
(123) Page 103
(124) Page 104
(125) Page 105
(126) Page 106
(127) Page 107
(128) Page 108
(129) Page 109
(130) Page 110
(131) Page 111
(132) Page 112
(133) Page 113
(134) Page 114
(135) Page 115
(136) Page 116
(137) Page 117
(138) Page 118
(139) Page 119
(140) Page 120
(141) Page 121
(142) Page 122
(143) Page 123
(144) Page 124
(145) Page 125
(146) Page 126
(147) Page 127
(148) Page 128
(149) Page 129
(150) Page 130
(151) Page 131
(152) Page 132
(153) Page 133
(154) Page 134
(155) Page 135
(156) Page 136
(157) Page 137
(158) Page 138
(159) Page 139
(160) Page 140
(161) Page 141
(162) Page 142
(163) Page 143
(164) Page 144
(165) Page 145
(166) Page 146
(167) Page 147
(168) Page 148
(169) Page 149
(170) Page 150
(171) Page 151
(172) Page 152
(173) Page 153
(174) Page 154
(175) Page 155
(176) Page 156
(177) Page 157
(178) Page 158
(179) Page 159
(180) Page 160
(181) Page 161
(182) Page 162
(183) Page 163
(184) Page 164
(185) Page 165
(186) Page 166
(187) Page 167
(188) Page 168
(189) Page 169
(190) Page 170
(191) Page 171
(192) Page 172
(193) Page 173
(194) Page 174
(195) Page 175
(196) Page 176
(197) Page 177
(198) Page 178
(199) Page 179
(200) Page 180
(201) Page 181
(202) Page 182
(203) Page 183
(204) Page 184
(205) Page [1]
(206) Page [2]
(207) Page [3]
(208) Page [4]
(209) Page [5]
(210) Page [6]
(211) Page [7]
(212) Page [8]
(213) Rear Flyleaf
(214) Rear Flyleaf
(215) Rear Board
(216) Rear Board
(217) Spine
(218) Fore Edge
(219) Scale
(220) Color Palette