^AAAAAAAAi was worth coming to sea to enjoy. Humanity is, however, versatile, and soon we had cause to change our ideas ; the angry moods of the German Ocean are matter of history, and, like history, repeat themselves On entering the Moray Firth in the evening the calm and untroubled sea was exchanged for rough billows, which tried our steamer’s extraordinary rolling and pitching capa- bilities to the utmost. Hour by hour we became more miserable, paying our tribute to Neptune, and truly realizing the difference between a voyage in prospect and one in reality. As we pass Duncansby Head, marine glasses and telescope are in great requisition to view John O’Groat’s House. Who he was it is hard to tell ; some say he is merely mythical, others declare he was a Scotchman who ferried folks across the Pentland Firth for fourpence or “ a groat,” hence the nickname. Again, it is said he was a Dutch- man with eight stalwart sons, who, having no idea of the law of primogeniture, alike wished to sit at the head of the table, whereupon John had an octagonal table made, which, having neither top nor bottom, saved any wrangling for pre- eminence in his family, Be this as it may, we decided it was a wild place to erect a habitation, on the summit of such a bold and dangerous head- land, within a stone’s throw of a powerful tide whose waters were breaking heavily upon the rocks. Passing the Orkneys we reach Fair Isle. This is a lonely rock, dreaded by sailors, for many are the shipwrecks it has caused Although it looks so “remote, unfriendly, melancholy, slow,” it contains about a hundred inhabitants who live by fishing and knitting, whilst some carve the drift wood with strange Spanish and Moorish designs, an art said to have been introduced by a few sailors, survivors from a vessel forming part of the Spanish Armada which was wrecked upon this tiny island. The morning broke bright and clear, the day sunny and warm, the sea was dotted with many fishing boats, and numerous sea birds followed in our wake. Under these favourable circumstances, the steward’s bell became an important institu- tion, for the commissariat on board was excellent, and the fresh sea air sharpened one’s appetite into expectancy. The day usually commenced at 7 o’clock by the steward serving coffee and rusks in VVWWWWWV^

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