^AAAAAAA 24 to fetch the doctor. They go before him and hastily repair the worst parts of the road, and thus travel for many, many miles through night and fog, through snow and storm ; for, on his promptness, life and death often hang. Some- times he is sent for by sea, where the danger is still greater on the storm-tossed element We visited the Cathedral, which contains a beautiful font by Thorwaldsen. Both Denmark and Iceland claim the celebrated sculptor as a native, but he was really a child of the sea, being born of Icelandic parents on the ocean between Iceland and Denmark. There is practically no dissent in the island and theological questions have not the important place they hold with us. The most burning one of recent times was as to who should repair this Church, which was fast becoming a ruin. The people of Reyk- javik said all the island should contribute, as it was called the Cathedral, 'therefore, it belonged to all. But all Iceland replied that it was the Parish Church of Reykjavik (and certainly they have no other) and that the townspeople were bound to repair it. Near here is the public press. The introduction of printing took place 362 years ago, when the last Catholic bishop of Holum was in- volved in numerous broils and disputes. He had a haughty and turbulent disposition, and, being very ignorant, was at a loss for someone who could compose in Latin ; and he prevailed upon a Swede to establish a press and by printing give publicity to his orders and acts of excommunica- tion. Ten years after the doctrines of the Re- formation were introduced and the press fell into the hands of people who employed it for the publi- cation of the Bible and other religious books. “All ready, sir ? ” said our guide, but we found things far from ready. Travelling in Iceland is attended with much more trouble and inconveni- ence than in any other part of Europe: there is neither coach, nor cart, nor waggon, for the con- veyance of persons or luggage. Everything is carried on horseback, and the first thing we had to think about was the procuring of horses. They are generally from 13 to 14 hands high, strongly made, lively, persevering, and carry from 16 to 20 stones weight many miles a day. As for several days we should be thrown almost entirely upon our own resources, we had to carry provisions and ww ww

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