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THE WE8TMANN ISLES.
“Yet still even here ! content can spread a charm,
Redress the clime and all its rage disarm.
Though poor the peasant’s hut, his feast though small,
He sees his little lot, the lot of all.
. . . Calm, and bred in ignorance and toil,
Each wish contracting, fits him to the soil.
“ Who’s for shore ? ” cried the captain, “ I am,”
“and I,” “and I,” said several, and in a few
minutes we were afloat in the gig and steering
towards a quaint sea town, so primitive that one
can scarcely imagine anything like it. Yet this
is Thorshaven, the Capital! of the Faroes. As we
approached we discovered the green tint we had
observed was grassy turf growing on the roof of
the wooden houses, which are built tier above tier
on a rocky promontory. We found the streets were
narrow, dirty, irregular passages, two or three
feet wide, composed of bare rock or mud and
winding up steep places or running in zigzags, so
that the most direct route from one place to
another generally leads “ straight down the
crooked lane and all around the square,” whilst
every part has a strong flavour of “ live fish, dead
fish, dried fish, cured fish, fish heads, fish entrails,
smell of fish, and stink of fish.” A local magnate
kindly proffered his services as guide, and we were
introduced to the lions of the place. He led us
with great pride to the Fort, which was built 3J0
years ago by Magnus Haynesen, the celebrated
naval hero of these parts. He cleared the seas of
Scotch, English, and even Turkish freebooters,
and erected this citidal as a protection against their
attacks. It is a little space on the hill side,
enclosed with a low stone wall, and is guarded by
four small antique cannons lying on the grass
enjoying a sinecure—literally lying in clover. A
wooden sentry box stands in a corner, and a little
cottage behind contains the military, when they
are not at their ordinary occupation—fishing.
From here we were conducted to a small wooden
building, with deep red walls, white-sashed
windows and a thick turf roof. We thought it
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