< A A A tAAAAAAAAAAAAA, 11 THE WE8TMANN ISLES. “Yet still even here ! content can spread a charm, Redress the clime and all its rage disarm. Though poor the peasant’s hut, his feast though small, He sees his little lot, the lot of all. . . . Calm, and bred in ignorance and toil, Each wish contracting, fits him to the soil. “ Who’s for shore ? ” cried the captain, “ I am,” “and I,” “and I,” said several, and in a few minutes we were afloat in the gig and steering towards a quaint sea town, so primitive that one can scarcely imagine anything like it. Yet this is Thorshaven, the Capital! of the Faroes. As we approached we discovered the green tint we had observed was grassy turf growing on the roof of the wooden houses, which are built tier above tier on a rocky promontory. We found the streets were narrow, dirty, irregular passages, two or three feet wide, composed of bare rock or mud and winding up steep places or running in zigzags, so that the most direct route from one place to another generally leads “ straight down the crooked lane and all around the square,” whilst every part has a strong flavour of “ live fish, dead fish, dried fish, cured fish, fish heads, fish entrails, smell of fish, and stink of fish.” A local magnate kindly proffered his services as guide, and we were introduced to the lions of the place. He led us with great pride to the Fort, which was built 3J0 years ago by Magnus Haynesen, the celebrated naval hero of these parts. He cleared the seas of Scotch, English, and even Turkish freebooters, and erected this citidal as a protection against their attacks. It is a little space on the hill side, enclosed with a low stone wall, and is guarded by four small antique cannons lying on the grass enjoying a sinecure—literally lying in clover. A wooden sentry box stands in a corner, and a little cottage behind contains the military, when they are not at their ordinary occupation—fishing. From here we were conducted to a small wooden building, with deep red walls, white-sashed windows and a thick turf roof. We thought it

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