30 hind legs and slid down, many stones rattling down along with us as the ponies kicked outright and left At the bottom, we looked back and around us with awe, for the contortions and shapes assumed by the lava arc really wonderful. On one side can be imagined a line of gigantic fortresses running on for miles, and on the other great churches and temples, mixed up in most curious confusion. Above these, in the distance, are towering snow-covered crags, piled up and up until they are lost in the clouds, and from the rocks shoot a number of waterfalls, some making exquisite arches as they fall into the valley below. Soon our destination came in sight, and, after fording a river several times, we arrived at the parsonage of Thingvellir We had been in the saddle many hours, and although the moon had risen and added her glitter to that of the sun, her light did not count for much. The moon was shining sulkily, Because she thought the sun Had got no business to be there After the day was done. The traveller in Iceland has in a great measure to depend on the churches or schoolrooms for accommodation, and there is something rather weird in the arrival till one gets used) to it. No inn appears with kindly light and no welcoming voices ; but one rides up to the churchyard gate and dismounts among the graves, like Leonore and her spectre lover. A silent little building receives one and offers for all entertainment a floor. Sleep was sometime in coming, and, as I looked out of the little window upon the silent graves, I tried to forget the Icelander’s supersti- tion named “the rising of the! churchyard.” according to which, on certain festivals, a mid- night mass is held in the churches attended by all the dead flock buried in the churchyard, some long dead parson acting as preacher. Englishmen are tempted to think all the clergy- men are baronets as the names Sir John, Sir Thomas, are consistantly heard, but we are told the term means father, nor can a more endear- ing term be used than that which characterises him as the father of his flock. Some of these priests, though very poor, are highly intellectual, one visited by Henderson translated Pope’s Essays

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