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Galloping onward, we got many suggestive
glances into dark boles lined with cinders, where
doubtless Vulcan had a workshop (Suddenly our
progress was arrested by a tremendous precipice,
or rather chasm, which yawned beneath our feet,
and completely separated the barren plateau we
had been so painfully traversing from a lovely,gay,
green plain, some ten miles broad, that lay
sunk at a level lower than a hundred feet between
us and the opposite mountain. This was the
celebrated Almanna Gja Many are the explana-
tions given of its origin, but Dufferin says :—
“ Ages ago—who shall say how long ? some vast
commotion shook the foundations of the island,
and bubbling up from sources far away amid the
hills, a fiery deluge must have rushed down
between their ridges, until, escaping from their
narrow gorges, it found space to spread itself into
one broad sheet of molten stone over an entire
district of country, reducing its varied surface to
one blackened level. Then while the pith or
marrow of the lava was still in a fluid state, its
upper surface became solid and formed a roof,
beneath which the molten stream flowed on to
lower levels, leaving a vast cavern, into which the
upper crust subsequently plumped dow-n.” Then
commenced the usual process of Icelandic
vegetation ; for hundreds of years the lava stands
up cold, bleak and naked. Finally, a thin species
of moss begins to cover the rocks with a delicate
brown or pale green, and after a long period—by
the winds carrying the dust, by the flight and rest
of birds, by insects and the growth of mosses, a
little soil appears, then the beautiful heath, to be
succeeded, after another long period, by a scanty
growth of grass. No country produces such
fragrant hay as Iceland, but we noticed the lava
appeared only six or eight inches below the surface
of the meadows.
The precipitous sides and immense depth of the
chasm seemed at once to bar our further progress.
But Ericson said “We must go down it,” and
down it we went, our ponies picking their way,
zig-zagging from point to point and crag to crag,
or stepping from one huge block of lava to
another. We repeatedly leaned back, touching the
pony’s tail with the back of our heads in order to
maintain the perpendicular and avoid being shot
over their heads. Sometimes they drew up their
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