19 REYKJAVIK. “And away to the North ’mong ice-rocks stern, And among the frozen snow ; To a land that is lone and desolate, Will the wand’ring traveller go.” We were busy investigating the mysteries of a fish pudding, made by beating up fish, butter, eggs, and cream, when we heard the cry, “ Land ahead! ” Dinner was forgotten, and all our passengers came rushing up from below to look at the grey line on the horizon which represents the first view of Iceland. The rain and spray eddied to and fro with every roll of the vessel ; but with the sky clearing, the sun breaking out, and our promised land in sight, there was not a blank face amongst us. The highest mountain, with its snow clad crest and slopes and extensive glaciers, was distinctly visible through the bright, clear air, at a distance of 70 miles. As we approached nearer the scene was sublime in its simplicity and grandeur. The long, rounded forms of the mountain shone with the glitter of eternal ice and snow ; below were high black cliffs, half veiled by the leaping foam of the sea ; whilst the fore- ground was one mass of immense driving Atlantic billows. A very considerable portion of Iceland is covered with glaciers, the gradual subsidence of which forms not one of the least of the terrible dangers that constantly threaten enormous tracts of country with destruction. Vatna-Jokul, the largest of the mountains we saw, is an icefield which covers an area of nearly 4,000 square miles or about one-twelfth of the total area of the island. Next was pointed out in the far distance, Ingolf’s Head. We had ample time on the voyage to appreciate the spirit of the bold mariners who first crossed the waters, without chart or compass, guided only by their brave instincts. When they first saw this headland they flung overboard the sacred pillars of their temple in the belief that, directed by the gods, these would be carried by the tide to a spot divinely selected for the new settlement. But, alas, during the night they lost

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