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Descending the hills we reached a vast level
plain containing the Lauger Lake, upon the brink
of which are several hot springs,which we visited.
The Icelandic boiling springs gush forth at the
foot of the mountains in hundreds of places and in
a hundred different ways. We saw some of gentle
and even flow being used for washing, cooking,
and bathing, whilst others were objects of
curiosity and wonder ; one of the most remark-
able consists of two fountains within a yard of
each other—the larger one vomiting a column of
boiling water ten feet high for the space of four
minutes, when it entirely subsides, and then the
smaller one operates for about three minutes,
ejecting a column of about five feet. The alter-
nation is perfectly regular in time and force.
There are authentic accounts of its unfailing
exactitude for the last hundred years. After
bathing in one of these tepid springs, and cooking
our dinner in a boiling one, we galloped for some
miles over the wet marshy plain and through
narrow tracks worn by the ponies into hollows
sometimes two feet in depth. As we rode along it
was necessary to be ever on the alert and to main-
tain an incessant motion of the feet in order to
avoid collision with the irregular surface and the
projecting stones on either side of us. I was
astonished to find, on dismounting, that these deep
tracks were so narrow that I could not walk in
them, yet the horses found no difficulty in trotting
along. We saw many wild-looking sheep, which
ran away at a great speed upon our approach.
The ox, sheep and horse, which accompanied the
first colonists to their new home, still form the
staple wealth of their descendants, though in
preserving their sheep they are much hampered
by the bad climate, scantiness of winter food, and
the attacks of the eagles, ravens and foxes, all of
which carry off vast numbers, especially at the
lambing season. The system of sheep-shearing in
some parts is curious, for they are seized, thrown
on their backs, their legs tied and the wool pulled
off by main force. It seems to be a cruel method,
but we are told that there is a period in the year
when the young wool beginning to grow pushes
the old out before it, so that the old coat is
easily pulled off.
If one wishes to study ornithology, let him go
to Iceland, for it boasts of 82 species of indigenous
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